Welcome to Raventós i Blanc, located in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Spain-- about a 30/40 minute drive from Barcelona. 


Here is the view from the winery, looking out over the vineyards.  The land has been family owned since 1497. Click here for an interesting time line/family tree. 

44 distinct vineyard blocks are managed separately and produce a small range of interesting, terroir-driven bottlings.

Here is a view from the vineyards, looking back toward the winery. They designed the building to blend into the natural landscape, and to take maximum advantage of natural light in areas that require lighting.  

Their oldest vineyard block is stake-trained xarel-lo vines that clock in at over 60 years. The Raventós i Blanc still bottling "Silencis" really captures what xarel-lo can be here. 

<-- We took to the vineyards in a Land Rover from way back!  

The property has several different soil types. Compare the stony soil in the photo to the left with the sandy soil in the photo below-- two completely different soils from within walking distances apart.  (kinda reminds me of the south Rhone!)


In the photo below you see some old parellada vines, free-standing (no trellis) in the sandy soil.  At the time of this visit (Sept 2011) this parcel was just about ready to harvest.  Vineyard workers had recently done some canopy thinning to let the sun ripen the last of the bunches that were lagging in their brix levels.  I could really taste the difference between the sun-exposed grapes and the grapes hidden behind the leaves. It's also noticable in the color-- the sun-exposed grapes are yellower and the shaded grapes have a greenish tint. 

                              Just look at this old girl! (photo above!) The grapes are practically dripping off this bush parellada. 

No irrigation is allowed in this DOC, so all vines are dry farmed.  Some blocks get a little water-table help from a 200 year old man made lake nearby, originally constructed to water trees used in wine box production. 

On to the winery.  The photo on the left is a small scale model of the winery. As you can see, the winery has been designed around an extremely old oak tree (to the very left of the photo). This tree is also the inspiration for the Raventós i Blanc logo.

See below for a photo of this special tree-- at 500 years old, this is the second oldest oak tree in Catalonia.  

We visited in September 2011, right at harvest.  The extremely busy winery employees bustled about, there was so much to see, and the delicious must had just begun to ferment (see left-- if you've never seen grape must before it has been fermented into wine, it always looks cloudy so don't be afraid!). 

The grapes are fed into the fermenting room by gravity. This is a fancy way of saying that they dump the bunches into the crusher from the ceiling-- most wineries build their fermentation facility into a natural hillside so that they can do this. The side of the fermenting room in the hill keeps cool from being underground, the other side usually opens up to allow machinery/people in if needed, and trucks carrying the fruit can drive up the hill and drop the fruit in from above. 

Here they produce beautiful still white wines in addition to cavas. Because of the warm weather in this region, the natural acidity in the grape is a bit lower than in other sparkling wine regions. Because of this, they almost never dosage their cavas. In a very high-acid vintage, they might dosage a small amount if it's needed. 

After the secondary fermentation they must concentrate the lees in the neck of the bottle in order to remove them, and these automated riddlers get the job done efficiently. 

There are also a silent room full of traditional pupitres for the premium high-end bottlings. 

Here we are with Josep "Pepe" Raventós (he is in the middle), the current GM behind the operation. What an amazing guy with an incredible family history. 

In 1872 Pepe's great great great grandfather, Josep Raventós Fatjó, pioneered sparkling wine production in Spain after being inspired in Champagne. His son,  Manuel Raventós Doménech (Pepe's great great grandfather), dealt with replanting after phylloxera and built up the sparkling wine production. 

Pepe's grandfather created the CAVA denomination. Pepe's father & grandfather (Josep & Manuel) founded Raventós i Blanc in 1986 with the specific goal of premium wine production that would define itself apart from the larger producers in the region. Manuel pioneered single vineyard cava, and Manuel and Pepe continue to explore the possibilities within their unique terroirs. 

And this brings us to the current issues surrounding cava. With so many huge producers making millions of cases of cheap cava, how can medium or small producers making high-quality wines stand out from this crowd and break away from the "cava is a cheap & lower quality version of Champagne" stereotype?  Champagne's massive and successful global marketing strategy (funded by some of the huge producers in the region) has paved the way for Champagne to dominate the fine-sparkling market.  A few producers-- Raventós (Spain), Schramsberg (California), Tissot (Jura), and some of the higher quality franciacorta producers-- have shouldered into this market, but consumers mostly remain closed to the possibilities of quality in sparkling wine from outside of Champagne.  Can this be challenged?  Could small fine-wine producers in Spain create something like a Special Club designation to help them with international branding?  I'm interested to see what happens over the next few decades with high quality sparkling wine from outside of Champagne, especially Spain.  Pepe will play an integral role in this-- in the span of 160 years his family brought sparkling wine to Spain, then paved the way for cava, and is now in the midst of re-defining cava.  This can be tasted in the wines, and I look forward to seeing what lies in store for Spanish producers of high quality sparkling wines. 

Ocracoke Island-- part of North Carolina's Outer Banks, is one of my favorite places on Earth. 

The island has a fresh water well that made it a concealed location for pirates to rest in the 1750s-- the largest pirate gathering in recorded history (organized by Blackbeard)  happened on the beach at Springer's Point.  

In WWII Ocracoke had immense strategic significance. A man-made harbor (Silver Lake) served as a safe port for Allied ships. An important radar station on Ocracoke (now in ruins, and practically forgotten) helped design technology that could locate U-Boats that blockaded the United States' eastern shores. 

Since then, it has become a mildly populated island with business geared toward summer tourism. A large part of the island remains a protected nature reserve, and wildlife abounds-- including a wild pony population supposedly descended from livestock abandoned by a ship in the 1550s.  
 

Reachable only by ferry and with sporadic WiFi service, Ocracoke feels secluded. Most people abandon their cars when they arrive and travel solely by bicycle. The longer you are there, the more you ease into the slower pace of life on the island. 

You learn to live without certain things: strip malls, shopping malls, pizza delivery, chain restaurants, and you grow accustomed to the limited resources available (clams, shells, more clams).  For example, I know that on Ocracoke, unless I'm at Howard's Pub, my beer choices are likely to be Corona or Bud Light.  Wine? Fuggedaboutit.  But you give up access to certain items to gain so much more. 

Each summer I've always gone to Ocracoke prepared to drink mass produced skunked beer out of coozys.  This is why I was so amazed to discover Zillie's Island Pantry in 2011.  I went back again this year, and it was still kicking. 

Zillie's is a wine/beer retail shop that also sells artisinal cheeses, cigars, crackers, and fancy condiments. They have a front porch where you can drink the products you purchase.  What's really incredible is the breadth and depth of the global selection of wines and beers.  Now, the ultra fine wine market on Ocracoke is pretty tiny, and Zillie's has to turn a profit to stay in business, so due to the demands of the local economy  you will not find Pradikat rieslings, Grand Cru Burgundy, First Growth Bordeaux, or cult cabernet (I also imagine they probably have limited access to wine/beer distribution companies on the island), but you will find a nice selection of Qualitatswein, mid-range Napa cabs in a wide assortment of vintages, several different larger brand name Champagnes, selections of cava/prosecco/moscato, Bourgogne AC, New Zealand sauvignon blancs, great affordable Australian shiraz, Chilean carmenere, and some decent AC Bordeaux.  By the glass they pour 20 global wines including a tasty Vouvray.

In any US town, this would be considered a great shop. For Ocracoke, having this selection available is nothing short of incredible.  Furthermore, and possibly most important, Zillie's manages to integrate into the larger local food/beverage market without pretension or snobbiness. They have brought a global variety of delicious beverages to a semi-secluded community, and in doing so, they have raised the bar for the community. 

<--- This fisherman guards the front door. 

Zillie's is named after an Ocracoke legend: 
Barzilla O'Neal (October 30, 1859 - June 10, 1939)

Barzilla ("Zillie") was an "Old Maid," famous for her cooking, and her nephews were famous for their homemade "Meal Wine." 

On the front porch you can relax under strings of lights and enjoy whatever bottle you have just purchased.  On this particular day, it was a moscato day... and a mosquito day.

The staff is knowledgeable about beers, and I got some serious details on the hops used in this tasty brew. 

This is Zillie's Great Wall of Beer-- full of over 300 global artisinal selections, including mostly micro-brews and even some local selections. 

They also carry several draft choices, and allow guests to mix & match 6packs. 

Cigar Selection

Some mid-range classics from around the world, organized by varietal.

You can even buy glassware!  

Zillie's offers pantry items as well-- so you can geek out with some marinated artichokes or walnut pesto to go with your cheese and wine. 

The coffee scene in Charlottesville is vibrant and eclectic. Like coffee houses in Vienna (and most other cities in Europe) during the 1800s these establishments are interdisciplinary safe-houses where people from all walks of life come together, enhance community, and share ideas. In Vienna some of the greatest minds of the time inspired one another (Freud, Mahler, Schubert, to name a few) and enhanced a vibrant and innovative cultural era. This type of affordable environment informally nurtures interaction between different strata of society that might not normally come together.  I don't think it is a coincidence that where you find vibrant artistic cultures with forward-thinking and innovative professionals you also tend to find thriving coffeehouses.  By encouraging interdisciplinary thought-- in Charlottesville's case, through the coffeehouse environment-- a society will make itself stronger through shared knowledge by piggybacking on the advances of each individual discipline. 

Charlottesville has a fair share of corporate coffee chains-- there are a few Starbucks' and a pretty popular Greenberrys, but here I'm going to focus on the cool mom-&-pop coffee shops that make amazing non-corporate drinks. 

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The Downtown Mall
At this point in time, and for at least the last decade, Charlottesville's niche coffee scene revolves around an all-important nucleus: The Downtown Mall. East Main Street became a serious community center for Charlottesville when the the head of the county moved from Scottsville to Charlottesville in 1761. 

Charlottesville literally sprung up around this street that grew to accommodate a hotel, bank, theater and county buildings.  The Downtown Mall as we know it today, designed by landscape architect Lawrence Halprin, emerged in 1976 when East Main Street was converted into a pedestrian mall. The coffee shops that exist in and around the Downtown Mall help define and nurture the personality of Charlottesville's community.

Cafe Cubano

This is a colorful and happy coffee shop on the downtown mall-- a great location right in the middle of it all. Before Cafe Cubano the space was occupied by a different coffee house called Higher Grounds. Cafe Cubano makes great coffee but also has a kitchen with some decent food business. The food is tasty and filling-- great breakfasts and lunches. The coffee is all fair trade/organic/rainforest protected. 

Owner Tony Jorge is a great guy who sponsors the arts-- the is one of the main ways that Cafe Cubano helps to foster a culture of interdisciplinary exchange in Charlottesville. Cafe Cubano is one of many coffee houses that participates in First Friday-- a monthly art event where Charlottesvillians come downtown and go from place to place, viewing all of the art on display. Usually, each venue will feature a single artist. Galleries launch large shows at this time, but smaller venues like record shops, restaurants, and ... coffeehouses also participate. (Click here for a list of First Friday venues). 

And if you will pardon one sentence of shameless promotion: my sister Blair Barbour (www.blairbarbour.com) will be showcasing her artwork here during July 2012! 

The Mudhouse

First of all, what a great name for a coffeehouse. The Mudhouse is a classic tale of self-made success. Two young entrepreneurs, John & Lynelle, started off in 1993 pushing a moving coffee cart up and down the downtown mall. In 1995, they set up shop at the very end of the mall and developed a faithful & loyal clientele. 

The Mudhouse attracts some unique slices of society, and that was their goal all along. "We wanted it to be a space of open dialogue for the whole community," they say. "We wanted to bring together artists, builders, professors, poets, lawyers, singers, painters, Goths, craftsmen, cyberheads, skatepunks and the city council…well, you get the idea. This is what coffeehouses have been for hundreds of years for people from Vienna and Paris to Boston and Berserkeley…." 

First and foremost it is a student hangout. There always seem to be high school and college kids hanging out on their laptops and writing papers. Before their renovation the atmosphere was hip and a bit edgy, with bright red walls and crazy furniture.  Post renovation, the place seems to have a more mature vibe to it-- slate colors and a more open and airy interior design. One amazing thing about the Mudhouse is that they have managed to establish themselves as a high quality art gallery-- probably due to John's great critical eye. They always have amazing art work on the walls, listed for high prices. Though I never imagine how the students working on their papers can afford to buy this art, someone certainly comes and buys it all, for the shows here are always extremely high quality and they always seem to sell out. 

They also have another coffee shop in Crozet, and 2 satellite locations-- mini espresso bars located inside of a gas stations. Coffee beans come from Lexington Coffee Roasting Company. 

Some pictures of the downtown location: 

CVille Coffee

CVille Coffee is a haven for busy parents (which Charlottesville has plenty of!) There is a play area, a huge kitchen, and plenty of space. Parents can let their kids play while they have just a coffee or a full blown meal from the kitchen. Arts and crafts are usually on display for sale, a community bookshelf provides reading material for those who didn't bring their own, and there are some musical performances as well. Clubs meet here, and you see some college kids and a little bit of the laptop crowd, but this is more of a place where you see parents with their kids.  




The quality of the coffee doesn't pull at my heart strings as much as the other coffee shops, but the breakfast burritos are great, and the environment is very family friendly. It's a great community gathering place. 

See below for the inside view:

Shenandoah Joe Coffee Roasters

Shenandoah Joe Coffee Roasters started off as a wholesale roastery. They would take walk-in business for coffee by-the-pound, but there was no barista counter and no coffee to drink for sale-- just fresh roasted beans. This is how I first encountered Shenandoah Joe. I'll always remember-- I had just had breakfast at the Bluegrass Grill, and I really liked their house coffee; no, more than that: it was one of the best cups of coffee I had ever had. I asked what the secret was and they say said it was from Shenandoah Joe. I left the breakfast joint on my vespa and headed directly there to buy a pound. When I walked in the warehouse door there was a guy roasting beans in a really interesting-looking roasting machine-- it was huge and the beans were being stirred around and around. The beans were at a critical moment, so I got to watch as he finished the process before he got us some coffee. 

A few months later they opened up their own shop. It's a bit off the beaten path from the downtown mall, but seriously, the amazing coffee was worth the drive. The new shop roasted the beans but also had spacious guest seating and a full barista counter. I love their Traditional Cappucino (a really short cappuccino, like a cortado) made with Long Frog espresso. Not gonna lie-- I still order this espresso every month in NYC because I haven't found a local coffee that I like as much!  They've now been in the new space for several years, and going strong!

<-----Shenandoah Joe's interior

You can see the roastery takes up the back half of the store space, while the counter and seating takes up the front half. The best part is going there when they are roasting the coffee- it's the most incredible aroma. 









below: an espresso & traditional cappuccino from Shenandoah Joe

Several other events and circumstances support these coffee roasters and brewers, mainly the weekly Farmers Market, the monthly art event First Friday, and the dining scene. 

The Farmers Market

Charlottesville Farmers Market is an amazing place. Not only do some of the greatest local farms pop up with the freshest veggies; the coffeeshops make appearances as well. C'Ville Coffee is usually there serving brew and their famous honey bites. Shenandoah Joe also is usually there pouring. Cafe Cubano & Mudhouse don't show up because their storefronts are literally a block away. 

First Friday
First Friday is a pretty awesome monthly event held by the City of Charlottesville. Several other cool cities have similar events, so you may have heard of the concept before.  On the First Friday of every month the Downtown Mall hosts a special community event that focuses specifically on art-- all the galleries rotate the artists monthly and you can walk from gallery to gallery and see all the new exhibitions and meet the artists. Galleries participate, but so do most of the coffee shops and a handful of restaurants and retail stores. 

Charlottesville's Dining Scene Supports the Coffee Scene

Rather than outsource, Fleurie Restaurant (pictured left) and Blue Grass Grill are one of several restaurants that serve up locally roasted Shenandoah Joe coffee.  The restaurant scene-- like elsewhere-- has been focused on farm-to-table elements for at least the last decade.  Local cheeses, wines, vegetables and meats are regularly featured in several restaurants.  Local coffees and teas have become a part of this renaissance in the last 5 years or so. 

Not a Coffee Shop ... but worth mentioning
Twisted Branch Tea Bazaar

Tea Houses seem to be the siblings of coffee houses. I'll always remember the first time I came here-- Years ago I walked up the wood staircase and opened the doors at the top to a whimsical and seemingly magical environment: persian carpets, booths with hanging fabrics, couches and pillows, a huge winding "tree trunk" that climbed up the wall and held various tea accoutrement in its nooks and crannies. I read the menu and on a whim ordered Silver Needle, because it said Chinese emperors had once favored it. It was such an amazing tea experience- my first high quality white tea.  Since then I've had many other great tea experiences here-- the menu rotates seasonally and focuses on the best quality teas. 

Twisted Branch also sponsors the arts-- but not paintings/prints like most of the coffee shops. They'll clear away tables on a raised part of the floor that acts like a stage and have small bands play at night; usually jazz combos and small folk bands. 

*CVille Coffee, Downtown Mall, & Twisted Branch Tea Bazaar photos by Mary Joy Scala

                                                                  This is some sick coffee. It's a secret blend of two roasts. 

             I just got back from a brief visit to Virginia and got my fix at Shenandoah Joe. It smells like cedar and cacao nibs.