Ata Rangi-- long a bellwether of Martinborough pinot noir-- is a quintessential expression of New Zealand's famed 'Gumboot Clone,' a clone claimed to have been brought to New Zealand in the work boot of a traveler who had taken a clandestine cutting from Domaine Romani Conti. To me, the Gumboot (also called Abel) clone is the dark side of pinot noir-- it's rich and spicy, and it marks most Martinborough pinot noir with its classic potpourri. 

Winery founder Clive Paton has quite an active life outside the winery, including forrest conservation, rugby, and cricket; but decades ago, he helped define Martinborough style when he planted Gumboot cuttings his late friend Malcolm Abel had given him. He is living history, and Ata Rangi winery is a new beginning for Martinborough agriculture. In fact, Ata Rangi translates to 'New Beginnng,' or literally 'Dawn Sky' in Māori. 

Here, winemaker Helen Masters runs a tight and focused ship. She & her vineyard managers farm sustainably and the 2011 pinot noir speaks of Martinborough terroir. Though there is much Gumboot in here, they also blend in other clones for complexity, resulting in a rich and complex pinot noir that excels on many levels. The warmer-than-usual 2011 vintage made this a ripe bottling. Because the stem and seed phenolics were so ripe, they used about 10% of whole clusters in the fermentation which also increased the power, density, and complexity of this wine. 

Petit verdot is a grape variety that you rarely see on its own-- it has difficulty ripening in most climates, but a few growers in Virginia are doing very well with it.  Success with the variety at King Family has inspired other producers to work with it as well. 2007 was a warmer year in Virginia, so long-ripening varieties like petit verdot came through with a nice harvest. 

In these early stages of the Virginia wine industry, it can be difficult to see the imprints of regionality on wines made from young vines. King Family Vineyards was one of the earliest wineries to establish home vineyards in Virginia's Monticello AVA. They are one of the few wineries with currently mature vineyards, and they work with all estate fruit. Because they have some of the older vines in the region, tasting King Family current release wines is a nice gauge of some of the potential of the Monticello AVA.  

King Family Vineyards Petit Verdot 2007
(Monticello, Virginia)
Tertiary aromas beginning- wet underbrush, dried leaves, but also a dense black fruit character. A meatiness starting to emerge. 
This is obviously a bordeaux variety, but mysterious in its provenance to blind tasters. 
*2007 tasted in 2014

Cool-climate syrahs have captured my fancy over the last couple of years, and I've been particularly interested in domestic versions that are able to capture the grace of this particular grape variety. Kivelstadt's 'The Inheritance' is an organic, small production (200 case!), native yeast-fermented syrah. The grapes are from a tiny vineyard in Sonoma, and they produce this great example of the new-wave, high-quality, cool-climate syrahs that are changing the wine landscape. 

I hunt for these beauties in regions that are known for growing grape varieties that favor a slightly cooler climate, such as pinot noir. Syrah and pinot noir share a unique dialogue: syrah can just ripen in places where pinot noir can thrive; it can live on the fringe in a pinot noir-prominent region. If a region is known for pinot noir, I look into who is growing syrah there, and that's a wine that has potential to be extraordinary.

Such syrahs can still be dense and powerful, but instead of presenting jammy fruit aromas and flavors, they tend to be herbaceous and smokey, peppery, highly interesting, and perfect with savory food.  

Kivelstadt 'The Ineritance' syrah 2009 (Sonoma, CA)
200 case production - 30% whole cluster - 18 mo in French oak - 30% new oak

Jordan Kivelstadt 
Jordan runs the winery with the help of his parents and good friend, Alex Pomerantz. In addition to 'The Inheritance' syrah, the team also makes a skin-fermented white wine, old-vine carignane, a pinot noir, and a few others. 'The Inheritance' refers to something Jordan's parents have established for him, and something he hopes to pass on to his own children. Jordan's surname is a blend of both his parents' last names (Nancy Kivelson & Tom Angstadt); and the winery as a whole is an extension of the family's unique amalgamation of kinship and identity. 

The drink of summer... 

These sparkling rosé bubbles are so tasty and refreshing, it's like biting into a perfectly ripe watermelon that's been spritzed with herb oil. 

Though previous releases have leaned toward the off-dry style, this one is pretty dry, and did I already say refreshing?

Pascal Pibaleau lives the biodynamic lifestyle: he freed his household, his diet, and his vineyards from chemical intervention long ago. He farms in the Loire Valley in Azay-le-Rideau and makes 'La Perlette' from Touraine grolleau-- some of his oldest grolleau was planted in 1945. And he's no stranger to this region; his great grandfather purchased the original holdings back in 1886. 

In the winemaking process, he is fascinated by the dynamics between wine and lees, and keeps his wines with the yeast for much longer than most winemakers. La Perlette is a PetNat made naturally, with no added sugar.   
 

In 1988 a grower discovered that one of his tempranillo plants had mutated to white. Since then, clones of tempranillo bianco have been planted around Rioja, and a few producers are releasing 100% tempranillo blanco bottlings. In 2007, Rioja recognized tempranillo blanco as an official grape within the DO. Bodegas La Crusset is one of the early champions of this mutant clone of tempranillo, and they make this highly interesting wine, 'La Bella Fernanda,' from the unique grapes. 

This wine starts its fermentation in tank, then-- like so much red tempranillo-- moves to American oak to finish fermenting. 

La Crusset 'La Bella Fernanda' 2011 (Rioja, Spain)
aromas of spice & mustard, a savory, herbaceous element to this wine. Rich and bright on the palate with hints of extended skin contact. 

The sunlight here is different than in most regions of the world. A weaker ozone layer above means higher levels of UV rays reach the land below. Under these conditions, vineyard workers can become sunburned in just a few minutes, and the heat just feels different than it does in other parts of the globe. In the photo below you'll see that even the cows stay huddled in the shade-spots under the trees, where the grass is moister and cooler. The grapes ripen a bit differently under these unique light conditions, and possibly this contributes a little to the terroir and distinction of Central Otago wines. 

The raw sun, combined with the average 12 inches of rainfall per year, affects the water availability in the area. Dry air, and somewhat parched hillsides behind the vineyards are normal for this region, and access to water tables is a necessity-- especially when establishing a young vineyard. 

Burn Cottage is more than just a vineyard-- it's a farm with 10 hectares of vineyards and 20 hectares of farmland and grazing pastures for their Highland Cattle. On the premise that  healthier farming can be achieved through biodiversity, you'll also find bee hives and olive groves on the property. In a common thread of conversation that you'll hear many New Zealand winemakers talk about, people are concerned with replanting indigenous trees and plants. One of New Zealand's primary industries is sheep farming. As sheep farming became a national mainstay over the last century, indigenous forests and plants were cleared away to plant grazing pastures and paddocks. This completely changed local ecosystems and disrupted the cycles of natural wildlife. Along with a few other wineries in New Zealand (such as Pyramid Valley), the crew at Burn Cottage has worked to repopulate the region with native plants, bushes, and trees that attract local wildlife and help rebalance the soil and animal populations. 

On this particular day (in February 2014), the grapes were a few weeks to a month away from harvest. Winemaker & Vice President Ted Lemon was out in the fields checking on the details. Ted is well known for his work in Burgundy, his small California winery, Littorai, and the accolades he's won over the years. He brings a trained eye and a passion for biodynamic farming to Burn Cottage. At the beginning of the day, I didn't realize that I was about to meet Ted Lemon on this visit, but I'm glad I got to meet him out in the vineyards-- it seems like the best place to meet someone so dedicated to farming. 

The farming at Burn Cottage is biodynamic, and has been from inception-- in part due to Lemon's allegiance to the farming philosophy. 

The team currently works with a wide variety of rootstocks and clones, but Ted notes that they don't always ripen at the same time which makes their vineyard work all the more important. 

Owner Marquis Sauvage did his homework in the vineyard and after analyzing 70 soil samples arranged for different clones to go in on each one. "There are river stones in one block, then jagged glacial rocks-- we have varied soils throughout the vineyards." All the blocks are organized in the cellar as well, and then carefully blended. "The idea is to reflect the block, not the grape clone." 

Claire Mulholland (GM & Associate Winemaker) keeps a close watch on things year round, and brings with her a wealth of experience from her former position at Martinborough Vineyards. She has a magic touch when it comes to pinot noir, and a laid back sense of control that also seems to manifest in the glass. 

This particular barrel caught my attention in the cellar: 'Lost Souls' is made from all the 'maybe' fruit on the sorting table-- fruit that doesn't get the official pass through to the wine, but the fruit that isn't 'rubbish' either. "It's a fun and interesting thing to see what it turns out to be, which is usually quite surprising," notes Claire. 

The first Burn Cottage Blocks were planted in 2003, and though pinot noir is their primary focus, they also have some small blocks of gruner veltliner and riesling. The most recent blocks were planted in 2009, and should enter the bottlings for the first time in the 2013 vintage. 

Getting started had its difficulties-- Central Otago has gone through a major boom in vineyard plantings, and it's been a struggle for the local nurseries to keep up. Many people who planted fast had to subsequently rip up their vines and replant because of poor stock. Marquis also notes that labor isn't cheap, and there is only one glass factory in the country making bottles. And yet, here they are today, going strong. 

It's been over a decade, and Burn Cottage is settling into a nice rhythm. After you taste the focus in the wines, it's incredible to think that this is such a young winery in such a young region. 

The wines from Burn Cottage are unique and expressive. They reflect the vintage and the soil in a very clear way. Production is split into two labels; Burn Cottage and Cashburn. Fruit that doesn't make it into Burn Cottage is reserved for Cashburn. In a great year, most of the production will be Burn Cottage, and there will not be that much Cashburn; and vice versa for a poor year. Eventually, they want to shift toward bottling the blocks individually, but the vines aren't quite ready yet. Marquis and Claire pulled some barrel samples from different blocks, as foreshadowing for what lies farther down the road. 

Here are a few in-the-moment tasting notes:

Barrel Sample blend of Block 6 & 8
aromas of raw toro, cacao, and dark-roasted coffee. on the palate, smooth open, clear, & soft. A rich yet bright acid supports the rich fruit. The tannins are silty and very, very fine. Extremely balanced. 

Barrel Sample of Block 7 (a steep face in the vineyard that gets lots of heat)
rich and round, full and lush, like biting into a perfectly ripe plum. This wine leaves you in a hot flush. 

2011 Burn Cottage
a highly unique expression here; light and bright, yet soft. An example of finely made wine in a rough year with wet and cold weather. In this year, much of the fruit went to Cashburn. 

2012 Burn Cottage
rich and smooth, with a dark spiciness to it- a clear reflection of the vintage, especially in comparison with the 2011. 

It's clear that something interesting is going on here-- even from the young fruit.. I'm really looking forward to watching these wines grow as their vines mature.... 

Bibliography
Notes from a winery visit on 27 January 2014. 
Mulholland, Claire. (2014) Personal Communication at Burn Cottage Winery. 27 January 2014.
Sauvage, Marquis. (2014) Personal Communication at Burn Cottage Winery. 27 January 2014.
Lemon, Ted. (2014) Personal Communication in the Burn Cottage Vineyards. 27 January 2014. 

A while back I got to try a sip of this interesting Australian gem. Since 1993, the Pannell family (more well-known for their work at Moss Wood) has poured much of their recent energy into producing world-class wines under the Picardy label in Pemberton, Western Australia. It's a rare find in the USA. 

Pemberton is just south of one of the world's greatest surfing destinations: Perth. And while many flock to this region for the waves, the Pannells are here for the dirt. The fruit is from home vineyards planted on gravel-loam soil; the vines are dry-farmed and near the ocean. The cooler breezes near the ocean translate to a longer ripening period in the vineyard. The wine is aged in carefully-sourced oak. They have a variety of oaks and toasts, but work mostly with one cooper in Burgundy. 

Pemberton is relatively new compared to Australia's older wine regions such as Barossa. The first vines went down in Pemberton in 1977- more than a century after James Busby's famous early plantings in South Australia.  

Picardy Merlot-Cabernet 1998 (Pemberton, Australia)
savory aromas of green pepper that you find in cooler climate cabernet, but incredibly rich and dense on the palate. I tried this at 14 years of age and it still had a lot of life left in it! Really a marvel of what Western Australia is capable of-- especially since, in 1998, the vines were less than a decade old.  

Some wines are stoic, some are thought provoking, some are abrasive and rough. But sometimes a wine will seem almost happy to me. I can't quite describe why or how, but there are a few wines that simply have an inner joy to them. Who knows why, but here are a few of my favorite "Happy Wines," hopefully they'll bring you some joy too! 

Pascal Pibaleau 'La Perlette' (Loire, France)

With aromas and flavors of crunchy watermelon doused with fresh tarragon, this bubbly pet nat is just plain happy. I have been pouring this by the glass for months, and I haven't seen a single person take a sip and fail to get a silly grin on their face. This is happy, happy wine. 

Tenuta San Jacopo 'Poggio ai Grilli' 2009 Chianti (Tuscany, Italy)

This is so different from the usual dusty Chianti-- this one is full of bright cherry fruit, so ripe and fresh. Not a dried out, acid-ridden sip to be found here-- nothing but smiles and ripe happiness. 

Graf von Schonborn Grauerbugunder 2009 (Germany)

This tasty, compact pinot gris has a sparkle to it! It shimmers in the glass and on the palate, to the point where you get a glow from within. 

Seresin (Marlborough, New Zealand)

The non-sulphured wines from Seresin are incredibly grin-worthy-- just like winemaker Clive himself. They aren't in the market yet, but if they ever make it to the US, prepare for mass smiles. 

Coenobium 2009 (Lazio, Italy)

This lightly orange wine from Lazio is made by nuns, but certainly, not the ruler-wielding ones, because this wine always puts a big fat smile on my face. The probably sing in the vineyard. 

Quinta do Ameal (Vinho Verde, Portugal)

This vineyard is surrounded by purple lavendar. It's a little sunny place where large, tasty, biodynamic, loureiro grapes grow-- if a wine can be as happy as its source, this is it! Loureiro is one of those kinds of wine grapes that is so delicious to eat right off the vine, and in this case all that happy vine-ripe freshness comes through even after traveling halfway around the world in a tiny bottle.... 

A brief drizzle had just driven some of the chickens into the tasting room. "Out!," Rachel used her very fashionable shoe to nudge a few hens onto the patio. The birds had wandered in, clucking, perhaps looking for a scrap of tasting-room cracker. 

Inside, in addition to the wines, you'll find local cheeses, meats, & other Virginia products from some of the great farmers and creameries in Virginia-- an admirable collection worthy of any locavore's attention. Doors on one wall were thrust open and revealed the home vineyards just a few steps away. Gabriele Rausse, planted the first vines here decades ago; and though they've since been replanted, it's as if the property was destined for vineyards all along. The place exudes a sense of history-- the historic Piedmont House next to the winery dates back to 1796, and played an integral role in the Civil War.

Then as if on cue, the flash-rain subsided, the sun came out, the fog of past centuries burned away,  and the chickens left us alone. 

Rachel  and her father, Scott, are the heart and soul behind Stinson Vineyards in Virginia. 

After several years of hard work, they've established a few home vineyards surrounding their winery. As the vines mature and get closer to producing high-quality fruit, many of Stinson's grapes come from contracts with some of the best growers in the area who have older vines. But the 2014 vintage should take us deeper into some home fruit. 

As the Stinson's planted vines, they came across many treasures hidden in the earth-- some old, some new, some man-made, and some from nature. Rachel displays these in the tasting room, and it's a constant reminder that the ground will always yield up surprises.... 

Virginia is such a new wine region, and has seen drastic growth in wineries-- an increase from 10 to over 250 wineries in the last 30 years. That's more than 250 new wineries, each requiring the millions of dollars worth of investment in machinery, land, and of course, the time it takes before young vines will produce quality fruit. As anyone who has started a winery will know, that initial investment in land, equipment, and building space can take decades to overcome on a balance sheet. 

Clearly cognisant of all the potential burdens of a new winery-- despite being relatively new to winemaking-- the Stinsons seem to have a resourceful plan for everything. From the aesthetic of their tasting room to the modular construction of their winery, they've grown their entire business from scratch on the basic idea of practical elegance. In fact, their entire approach could be a blue print for how best to start a winery. 

The winery building-- a garage-turned-winery-- makes Stinson Vineyards a garagiste in the truest sense of the word! But this is no ordinary garage. Inside, Scott has set things up to run smoothly. Familiar with contracting and construction, he organized a series of planned additions to grow the winery in stages. Located just off the tasting room, the fermenting room was the primary concern, and houses several stainless steel fermenters.  

But the proof is always in the glass; and it's pretty impressive. The Stinson 2013 mourvedre rose is complex, rich, and provençal. The pleasurable plum-fruit base that you look for in a nice rose is tweaked with complex herbaceousness and a hint of meatiness at the edges. 

The 2013 sauvignon blanc is from a grower who has some older 20+yr vines grown on limestone hills. The vines are farmed sustainably, and the wine has a zesty minerality that highlights the limestone provenance. This is stunning Virginia sauvignon blanc. 

Tannat seems to be the rage in this part of Virginia. It's popular among Stinson Vineyards and their neighbors at Grace Estate. The high-tannin variety is resilient and does well in this particular microclimate of Virginia. Stinson's 2011 tannat is just what you'd expect from this grape: a powerful dark fruit base with spicy aromatics and rich tannins.  

One of the fascinating aspects of the Virginia wine scene is that just about every winery produces a dessert-style wine. Visit other wine regions, and you will almost never find this to be the case. Most wine regions focus exclusively on either dry or dessert-style wines. And yet, here, it just goes without saying that pretty much every Virginia winery will have a dry wine selection and a dessert wine selection. For such a young wine region, I think it's fascintaing that so many producers are exploring the full spectrum of their grapes' potential. 

Rachel makes two different dessert wines. This 2012 late harvest petit manseng is a floral & sweet white with honey and white peach aromatics, and a nice acid backbone balancing out the sugar. 

And at the urging of her mother (she loves port), Rachel uses some of her tannat to make a vintage port-style wine called 'Imperialis.' This one comes in a Civil War replica bottle-- conjuring up the days seen by the Piedmont House next to the winery-- and was made in open-top puncheons. This port has an attractive funkiness to it-- it smells like dark plums, damson, spices, and even charcouterie. It has that X-factor that you sometimes find in great port-- a soul or anima that gives it a life of its own. This is a great example of port-style potential in Virginia. 

Of course, this would pair wonderfully with foods that would normally be paired with ports. But if those chickens continue to pester Rachel in the tasting room, the Imperialis could also wash down some charred BBQ wings...