The Central Otago sun reigns supreme over the vineyards. The sunlight here is different than in most regions of the world. A weaker ozone layer above means higher levels of UV rays reach the land below. Under these conditions, vineyard workers can become sunburned in just a few minutes, and the heat just feels different than it does in other parts of the globe. In the photo below you'll see that even the cows stay huddled in the shade-spots under the trees, where the grass is moister and cooler. The grapes ripen a bit differently under these unique light conditions, and possibly this contributes a little to the terroir and distinction of Central Otago wines.
The raw sun, combined with the average 12 inches of rainfall per year, affects the water availability in the area. Dry air, and somewhat parched hillsides behind the vineyards are normal for this region, and access to water tables is a necessity-- especially when establishing a young vineyard.
The raw sun, combined with the average 12 inches of rainfall per year, affects the water availability in the area. Dry air, and somewhat parched hillsides behind the vineyards are normal for this region, and access to water tables is a necessity-- especially when establishing a young vineyard.
The vineyard wildlife here is vibrant and stunning... Poppies and wildflowers grow between the rows, and you can hear the buzzing of bees as they make their rounds. Burn Cottage is more than just a vineyard-- it's a farm with 10 hectares of vineyards and 20 hectares of farmland and grazing pastures for their Highland Cattle. On the premise that healthier farming can be achieved through biodiversity, you'll also find bee hives and olive groves on the property. In a common thread of conversation that you'll hear many New Zealand winemakers talk about, people are concerned with replanting indigenous trees and plants. One of New Zealand's primary industries is sheep farming. As sheep farming became a national mainstay over the last century, indigenous forests and plants were cleared away to plant grazing pastures and paddocks. This completely changed local ecosystems and disrupted the cycles of natural wildlife. Along with a few other wineries in New Zealand (such as Pyramid Valley), the crew at Burn Cottage has worked to repopulate the region with native plants, bushes, and trees that attract local wildlife and help rebalance the soil and animal populations.
On this particular day (in February 2014), the grapes were a few weeks to a month away from harvest. Winemaker & Vice President Ted Lemon was out in the fields checking on the details. Ted is well known for his work in Burgundy, his small California winery, Littorai, and the accolades he's won over the years. He brings a trained eye and a passion for biodynamic farming to Burn Cottage. At the beginning of the day, I didn't realize that I was about to meet Ted Lemon on this visit, but I'm glad I got to meet him out in the vineyards-- it seems like the best place to meet someone so dedicated to farming.
At the base of the hill, these cute cows do their part in the ecosystem. The farming at Burn Cottage is biodynamic, and has been from inception-- in part due to Lemon's allegiance to the farming philosophy.
The team currently works with a wide variety of rootstocks and clones, but Ted notes that they don't always ripen at the same time which makes their vineyard work all the more important.
The team currently works with a wide variety of rootstocks and clones, but Ted notes that they don't always ripen at the same time which makes their vineyard work all the more important.
Claire Mulholland (GM & Associate Winemaker) & owner Marquis Sauvage Owner Marquis Sauvage did his homework in the vineyard and after analyzing 70 soil samples arranged for different clones to go in on each one. "There are river stones in one block, then jagged glacial rocks-- we have varied soils throughout the vineyards." All the blocks are organized in the cellar as well, and then carefully blended. "The idea is to reflect the block, not the grape clone."
Claire Mulholland (GM & Associate Winemaker) keeps a close watch on things year round, and brings with her a wealth of experience from her former position at Martinborough Vineyards. She has a magic touch when it comes to pinot noir, and a laid back sense of control that also seems to manifest in the glass.
Claire Mulholland (GM & Associate Winemaker) keeps a close watch on things year round, and brings with her a wealth of experience from her former position at Martinborough Vineyards. She has a magic touch when it comes to pinot noir, and a laid back sense of control that also seems to manifest in the glass.
This particular barrel caught my attention in the cellar: 'Lost Souls' is made from all the 'maybe' fruit on the sorting table-- fruit that doesn't get the official pass through to the wine, but the fruit that isn't 'rubbish' either. "It's a fun and interesting thing to see what it turns out to be, which is usually quite surprising," notes Claire.
The first Burn Cottage Blocks were planted in 2003, and though pinot noir is their primary focus, they also have some small blocks of gruner veltliner and riesling. The most recent blocks were planted in 2009, and should enter the bottlings for the first time in the 2013 vintage.
Getting started had its difficulties-- Central Otago has gone through a major boom in vineyard plantings, and it's been a struggle for the local nurseries to keep up. Many people who planted fast had to subsequently rip up their vines and replant because of poor stock. Marquis also notes that labor isn't cheap, and there is only one glass factory in the country making bottles. And yet, here they are today, going strong.
It's been over a decade, and Burn Cottage is settling into a nice rhythm. After you taste the focus in the wines, it's incredible to think that this is such a young winery in such a young region.
Getting started had its difficulties-- Central Otago has gone through a major boom in vineyard plantings, and it's been a struggle for the local nurseries to keep up. Many people who planted fast had to subsequently rip up their vines and replant because of poor stock. Marquis also notes that labor isn't cheap, and there is only one glass factory in the country making bottles. And yet, here they are today, going strong.
It's been over a decade, and Burn Cottage is settling into a nice rhythm. After you taste the focus in the wines, it's incredible to think that this is such a young winery in such a young region.
The wines from Burn Cottage are unique and expressive. They reflect the vintage and the soil in a very clear way. Production is split into two labels; Burn Cottage and Cashburn. Fruit that doesn't make it into Burn Cottage is reserved for Cashburn. In a great year, most of the production will be Burn Cottage, and there will not be that much Cashburn; and vice versa for a poor year. Eventually, they want to shift toward bottling the blocks individually, but the vines aren't quite ready yet. Marquis and Claire pulled some barrel samples from different blocks, as foreshadowing for what lies farther down the road.
Here are a few in-the-moment tasting notes:
Barrel Sample blend of Block 6 & 8
aromas of raw toro, cacao, and dark-roasted coffee. on the palate, smooth open, clear, & soft. A rich yet bright acid supports the rich fruit. The tannins are silty and very, very fine. Extremely balanced.
Here are a few in-the-moment tasting notes:
Barrel Sample blend of Block 6 & 8
aromas of raw toro, cacao, and dark-roasted coffee. on the palate, smooth open, clear, & soft. A rich yet bright acid supports the rich fruit. The tannins are silty and very, very fine. Extremely balanced.
Barrel Sample of Block 7 (a steep face in the vineyard that gets lots of heat)
rich and round, full and lush, like biting into a perfectly ripe plum. This wine leaves you in a hot flush.
2011 Burn Cottage
a highly unique expression here; light and bright, yet soft. An example of finely made wine in a rough year with wet and cold weather. In this year, much of the fruit went to Cashburn.
2012 Burn Cottage
rich and smooth, with a dark spiciness to it- a clear reflection of the vintage, especially in comparison with the 2011.
rich and round, full and lush, like biting into a perfectly ripe plum. This wine leaves you in a hot flush.
2011 Burn Cottage
a highly unique expression here; light and bright, yet soft. An example of finely made wine in a rough year with wet and cold weather. In this year, much of the fruit went to Cashburn.
2012 Burn Cottage
rich and smooth, with a dark spiciness to it- a clear reflection of the vintage, especially in comparison with the 2011.
It's clear that something interesting is going on here-- even from the young fruit.. I'm really looking forward to watching these wines grow as their vines mature....
Bibliography
Notes from a winery visit on 27 January 2014.
Mulholland, Claire. (2014) Personal Communication at Burn Cottage Winery. 27 January 2014.
Sauvage, Marquis. (2014) Personal Communication at Burn Cottage Winery. 27 January 2014.
Lemon, Ted. (2014) Personal Communication in the Burn Cottage Vineyards. 27 January 2014.
Notes from a winery visit on 27 January 2014.
Mulholland, Claire. (2014) Personal Communication at Burn Cottage Winery. 27 January 2014.
Sauvage, Marquis. (2014) Personal Communication at Burn Cottage Winery. 27 January 2014.
Lemon, Ted. (2014) Personal Communication in the Burn Cottage Vineyards. 27 January 2014.
RSS Feed
