The Arizona wine scene is truly blossoming, and it would be impossible to discuss Caduceus without first putting into the context of Arizona wine as a whole. As the Arizona wine scene has unfolded several "founding wineries" and several second and third generation wineries have emerged. At each winery I visited it seemed as if one or two people in the cellar also had their own label; and this genesis is quite interesting to watch. Winemakers join forces as they start their companies, then split apart when they have sufficient cash flow to operate solo. Three such linked wineries have recently unwinded into their own identities: Arizona Stronghold, Caduceus, and Page Springs. Arizona Stronghold is a large winery that sources much of its fruit from two main vineyards in Southern Arizona; the main source being the aptly named Arizona Stronghold Vineyard. Caduceus also sources some fruit from here (for their second label, 'Merkin'), but now the two projects are separated on paper and have different, distinct mission statements. Caduceus uses fruit mostly from the Bonita Springs Vineyard, which is located close to the Arizona Stronghold Vineyard in southern Arizona.
For several years, Caduceus winemaker/owner Maynard James Keenan produced wines with Eric Glomski who has since moved on to run the independent Page Springs Cellars. These three wineries are quite important to the image of Arizona wine on the global scale, and each has a different part to play.
Arizona Stronghold makes many wines, uses multi-state blending (CA-AZ-NM), and distributes far and wide. This is a powerhouse winery with a wide variety of wines to choose from, and they have helped make Arizona wine a more household name. Caduceus is a small-production boutique winery, which happens to be owned by a famous singer (this definitely helps the PR team!). Caduceus sources fruit from vineyards in southern Arizona and one vineyard near Jerome. Caduceus also makes second label wines under the name "Merkin" which are usually made from a blend of Arizona, New Mexico, and California fruit. Here the philosophy is carbonic maceration, and this is evident in the buoyant personality of many of the wines.
Merkin Vineyards 'Chupacabra blanca' 2011
pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, gewurztraminer, chenin blanc, vermentino
This is an interesting wine that blends several aromatic varieties. The wine has a smooth, rich mid-palate, but the acidity is high, and it all comes out with great balance. This blend changes every year, and fittingly, Chupacabra means 'shapeshifter.'
Merkin Vineyards 'The Diddler' 2011
80% chenin blanc, 12% malvasia, 6% albarino, 2% chardonnay
light-bodied and easy-drinking, aromas of honey and apricots.
Merkin Vineyards 'Benito Rose' 2010
zinfandel, petite sirah, syrah, viognier
complex red-fruit nose, crisp, light, and refreshing--just what you want under the Arizona sun!
Merkin Vineyards 'Shinola' 2011
Fruit is from Luna Rosa Vineyard in New Mexico
25% sangiovese, 25% dolcetto, 25% refosco, 25% primitivo
this is an interesting blend of four Italian varieties grown in New Mexico. red fruits, plums, and a hint of meatiness to this wine.
Fruit is from the Bonita Springs Vineyard in southern Arizona.
50% malvasia, 50% chardonnay
peaches, orange rinds, dried pineapples; rich body with nice acid balance. a zingy finish.
Caduceus 'Oneste' 2010
Fruit is from the Bonita Springs Vineyard in southern Arizona.
50% merlot, 50% barbera
juicy strawberries, low alcohol, light and quaffable.
Caduceus 'Sancha' 2009
Fruit is from the Bonita Springs Vineyard in southern Arizona.
tempranillo/garnacha
cherries, dried raspberries; light and crisp, soft tannins, spicy finish.
Caduceus 'Anubis' 2010
Anubis is the god of the underworld who takes you across the river Styx.
This fruit is from the Bonita Springs Vineyard in southern Arizona.
80% cabernet sauvignon
12% petite sirah that's been co-fermented with a small amount of malvasia
8% syrah
roasted raspberries, brulee, smokey herbs, very soft, fine tannins.
Despite the hefty price tag, this wine wins awards every year and sells out fast, and rightly so. It is a special, incredibly personal, single vineyard cuvee. The bottling is a touching tribute to Maynard's mom; her ashes are spread across this vineyard.
This is the kind of thoughtful wine that is so special, you are simply left thankful that the winemaker is even sharing any of this with the public at all.