If Michelangelo never picked up a paintbrush, he might have been a lousy accountant. If Einstein never took a physics class he could have ended up a mediocre electrician. But every so often, a lucky few end up in a time, a place, and a profession that allows them to resonate and reach their highest potential. Hans Herzog is one such person. He's a man of few words-- but he doesn't need them, anyway. His fluency is in wine.
I've never tasted a collection of wines that sing so perfectly in tune. The purity of grape variety comes through with astounding resonance. Hans attributes this to the clay soils on which he has planted. He uttered a rare sentence, "when you plant on limestone, you taste the limestone. When you plant on clay, you taste the grape." This view of winemaking runs almost contrary to terroirist approaches that see the grape as a conduit of the soil. Hans takes a different approach by looking for soils that will not overpower the attributes of the grape, so he can let the variety sing. This is a different kind of winemaking.
When you taste the wines, the closest analogy I can think of is Gregorian chant. His wines are like tones ringing out in perfect pitch without instrumental accompaniment; whereas in other wines, the nuances of soils and techniques add layers of harmony upon the grape tone. The approach he takes could be considered risky, his ideas are very different to what most winemakers speak about when they talk soil... but when the wines are in a glass in front of you, you have no choice but to recognize them for the special songs that they are.
When you taste the wines, the closest analogy I can think of is Gregorian chant. His wines are like tones ringing out in perfect pitch without instrumental accompaniment; whereas in other wines, the nuances of soils and techniques add layers of harmony upon the grape tone. The approach he takes could be considered risky, his ideas are very different to what most winemakers speak about when they talk soil... but when the wines are in a glass in front of you, you have no choice but to recognize them for the special songs that they are.
Almanac from 1861 belonging to Hans' viticulturalist ancestors. Hans has more than a little experience-- his family has been making wines along the Rhone River since the 1600s. Hans' ancestors used almanacs when they ran their wine business in Switzerland, and these are unassumingly mounted on the walls of the cellar. How unexpected to find these threads to Switzerland's past so far away in Marlborough, New Zealand!
Hans and Therese Herzog Hans' story begins with a break from tradition. He was the first in his recent lineage who chose not to take over the family winery.
Hans and Therese met in 1984, and they planted some new vineyards near Zurich; still, he felt restricted by climate. In his travels he kept his eye out for perfect sites. Hans had passed through Marlborough back when there were only about 2 or 3 producers and had a dream of planting vineyards here. By 1994, their Swiss venture was successful, and there was no real need to keep looking. But Hans kept a deep interest in Marlborough. Therese was hesitant to leave her home and move, so Hans started vineyards in Marlborough as a 2nd project.
"He knew exactly where he wanted to be: near the river," Therese narrates. When they purchased this land, it was the oldest apple orchard in Marlborough, along the banks of the Wairau River.
They commuted around the globe for several years, and after a while it became clear that Marlborough "is better than he ever dreamed it to be. And we decided to leave our successes in Switzerland to focus here." When they established themselves in Marlborough, the region was in the throes of the global sauvignon blanc boom that put New Zealand on the global wine map, but "Hans wanted to do something different." And he certainly has. With 28 grape varieties ranging from pinot noir to St. Laurent, Hans is showing the world another side of Marlborough.
Hans and Therese met in 1984, and they planted some new vineyards near Zurich; still, he felt restricted by climate. In his travels he kept his eye out for perfect sites. Hans had passed through Marlborough back when there were only about 2 or 3 producers and had a dream of planting vineyards here. By 1994, their Swiss venture was successful, and there was no real need to keep looking. But Hans kept a deep interest in Marlborough. Therese was hesitant to leave her home and move, so Hans started vineyards in Marlborough as a 2nd project.
"He knew exactly where he wanted to be: near the river," Therese narrates. When they purchased this land, it was the oldest apple orchard in Marlborough, along the banks of the Wairau River.
They commuted around the globe for several years, and after a while it became clear that Marlborough "is better than he ever dreamed it to be. And we decided to leave our successes in Switzerland to focus here." When they established themselves in Marlborough, the region was in the throes of the global sauvignon blanc boom that put New Zealand on the global wine map, but "Hans wanted to do something different." And he certainly has. With 28 grape varieties ranging from pinot noir to St. Laurent, Hans is showing the world another side of Marlborough.
They serve food from their restaurant in an oasis of a garden that sits just off their cellar tasting room. The winery is more than just a job for them. They live here and have a restaurant here... they've taken a few hectares of land and sculpted it into their own little utopia.
Light trickles in the cellar entranceway... 
In the cellar, in the restaurant, and in the vineyard, there is a sense that everything sits gently in its place. Even Hans and Therese fit neatly and comfortably in their environment.
During the tasting, Hans stood in mid-discussion of a particular wine when a renegade cork rolled away from the pile of corks that had amassed in the center of the table. He noticed it, furrowed his brows at the cork, plucked it up, and placed it back in the neat pile. I imagine this is the way they have sculpted their environment into a beautiful hamlet-- piece by piece, they've created a tidy place for everything. In this pristine and cozy environment, there is a lasting calmness to their business, and you can taste this calmness in the wine.
During the tasting, Hans stood in mid-discussion of a particular wine when a renegade cork rolled away from the pile of corks that had amassed in the center of the table. He noticed it, furrowed his brows at the cork, plucked it up, and placed it back in the neat pile. I imagine this is the way they have sculpted their environment into a beautiful hamlet-- piece by piece, they've created a tidy place for everything. In this pristine and cozy environment, there is a lasting calmness to their business, and you can taste this calmness in the wine.
Even their dog fits neatly onto this step.
Hans Herzog "Spirit of Marlborough"
merlot cabernet (Marlborough)
This wine was a real tear-jerker for me. One of those wines that makes you sort of wake up to what is happening at this winery. Therese mentions that "this is what Hans was motivated to do: make a great Bordeaux-style wine."
The aromas are so savory, and when you taste the wine it is rich yet open, an aftertaste of what reminds me of roasted peppers lingers for the longest time.
Hans Herzog Montepulciano
Hans & Therese lovingly call this "Monti."
This is an inky, full-bodied wine with persistent tannins that remind me of sagrantino.
merlot cabernet (Marlborough)
This wine was a real tear-jerker for me. One of those wines that makes you sort of wake up to what is happening at this winery. Therese mentions that "this is what Hans was motivated to do: make a great Bordeaux-style wine."
The aromas are so savory, and when you taste the wine it is rich yet open, an aftertaste of what reminds me of roasted peppers lingers for the longest time.
Hans Herzog Montepulciano
Hans & Therese lovingly call this "Monti."
This is an inky, full-bodied wine with persistent tannins that remind me of sagrantino.
Hans Herzog sauvignon blanc 2010 (Marlborough)
This is not your average Marlborough sauvignon blanc. It is such a far cry from any other Marlborough sauvignon blancs-- or any other sauvignon blanc, period-- that it makes you wonder if you ever really thought you understood this variety to begin with.
It smells like sun-dried habaneros and dried heirloom tomatoes, it tastes rich and savory, is perfectly balanced, has the most incredible texture and mouth-feel, and finishes with a dancing acidity.
Hans Herzog viognier 2011
(Marlborough, NZ)
After Therese first tasted Chateau Grillet, she begged Hans to make a viognier, and this is the result! These vines were planted in the mid-90s.
The viognier is so purely viognier-- there is a cool, rich mid-palate with an almost oily texture balanced by an electrically vibrant acidity; and the aroma of viognier jumps out of the glass.
This is not your average Marlborough sauvignon blanc. It is such a far cry from any other Marlborough sauvignon blancs-- or any other sauvignon blanc, period-- that it makes you wonder if you ever really thought you understood this variety to begin with.
It smells like sun-dried habaneros and dried heirloom tomatoes, it tastes rich and savory, is perfectly balanced, has the most incredible texture and mouth-feel, and finishes with a dancing acidity.
Hans Herzog viognier 2011
(Marlborough, NZ)
After Therese first tasted Chateau Grillet, she begged Hans to make a viognier, and this is the result! These vines were planted in the mid-90s.
The viognier is so purely viognier-- there is a cool, rich mid-palate with an almost oily texture balanced by an electrically vibrant acidity; and the aroma of viognier jumps out of the glass.
Therese has problems with heavily sulphured wines, and Hans has issues with acidity, so these wines have very low sulphur and the acidity in them is of a soft and light kind. It's not the kind of acid that will melt the enamel off of your teeth; the acidity expresses itself in a more digestible way than you find in many other wines. "For us," Therese notes, "an outstanding wine should be a healthy wine." This philosophy really comes through in the pleasant drinkability of these wines.
But above all, the varietal character that shines through in each bottle is astounding. If you want to understand a grape, pick a Hans Herzog wine and get to know it a little better.
But above all, the varietal character that shines through in each bottle is astounding. If you want to understand a grape, pick a Hans Herzog wine and get to know it a little better.
Hans Herzog is a Grape Whisperer, and to experience these wines is to experience a profound expression of varietal character.
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