James Millton has been a big hero of mine ever since I tried one of his aged chenin blancs. He's a biodynamic producer, and is the only winegrower from New Zealand who is a chartered member of Nicholas Joly's Renaissance. James Millton and his wife Annie make a series of wines, and they also have a line of grape juices too.
Millton "Te Arai Vineyard" 2007 (Gisborne, New Zealand)
This is the 2007 Te Arai vineyard chenin blanc; dark yellow (almost gold!) in color, a rich aroma and dense palate, extremely well made with lots of soul. The first time I smelled this I knew I'd love these wines! This is right up there with some of the best chenin blancs I have tried from the Loire Valley. He gets complexity by hand-picking at three different ripening stages, so the wine has acidity, fruit, and often a hint of botrytis.
The Millton's make wines from four primary vineyards. Annie's parents planted the Opou vineyard in the 1960s, and in the early 1980s James and Annie set up their winery and planted their other three vineyards. They live and work at Te Arai vineyard (where this chenin blanc comes from). Since the beginning they have been pioneers, and they have stuck true to their beliefs. They were the first in New Zealand to be certified organic (through BioGro) and soon after the first in New Zealand to be certified biodynamic (through Demeter), and have become figureheads for this type of farming in their neck of the globe.
The Te Arai vineyard is green and thriving with life, from their biodynamic livestock herd to the healthy cover crops that grow between the vine rows.
Though Gisborne produces about 1/4 of New Zealand's wine, most of the wine goes towards inexpensive tablewines. It's quite surprising to find the oasis of the Millton's winery in the midst of all the large-production. Gisborne is a region that doesn't see much of the high-end global market compared to Marlborough, Martinborough, or Central Otago, but the Millton's have really showcased the potential of the entire region.
Gisborne wasn't always suitable for wine growing-- the Waipaoa River would unexpectedly flood, making agriculture a risky venture-- until a flood control program in 1953 helped control the river's instability. Despite the floods, there have been vines in the region since about 1850, when missionaries set up the first Gisborne vineyard.
Gisborne wasn't always suitable for wine growing-- the Waipaoa River would unexpectedly flood, making agriculture a risky venture-- until a flood control program in 1953 helped control the river's instability. Despite the floods, there have been vines in the region since about 1850, when missionaries set up the first Gisborne vineyard.
Millton works with other varietals and makes high quality wines from viognier and the chardonnay (from Annie's parent's vineyard). These are fantastic wines, and I'm so glad that they are finally imported to the US again after a hiatus of a few years.
Millton also makes biodynamic, non-alcoholic grape juices from his vineyards. He has given advice to other grapegrowers who are also making organic juices from their vines, such as Oakencroft Farm.
The Millton's are special people-- not only have they helped to put New Zealand wines on the map by making their high quality wines, but they have helped lead & inspire-by-example with their successful organic and biodynamic farming philosophy. Gisborne is a moist climate, making it very difficult to grow wines organically there. If they can do it successfully there....
Bibliography
Cooper, Michael. (2002) Wine Atlas of New Zealand. Auckland: Hodder Moa Beckett. pp 122-127.
Cooper, Michael. (2002) Wine Atlas of New Zealand. Auckland: Hodder Moa Beckett. pp 122-127.
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