Erinn and Janet Klein at Ngeringa winery in Adelaide Hills, Australia, make small quantities of a lovely dessert wine made similarly to a Vin Santo. The wine is called "Altus," and it's made by drying grapes, crushing them and letting them ferment on their own, then leaving them in an un-topped barrel for about five years. The wine oxidatively develops a rich, raisiny and nutty character. Altus is made primarily from viognier, with a little pinot gris and gewurztraminer as well.
Ngeringa winery is farmed according to biodynamic principles (NASAA certified) and is in the good hands of the husband and wife Klein team. They don't just grow grapes-- orchards, cattle and sheep, and vegetable gardens also contribute to the local ecosystems.
Ngeringa winery is farmed according to biodynamic principles (NASAA certified) and is in the good hands of the husband and wife Klein team. They don't just grow grapes-- orchards, cattle and sheep, and vegetable gardens also contribute to the local ecosystems.
The logo represents the full moon, "acknowledging the outer influences on the plants." The full moon has central importance in the biodynamic calendar; though Erinn mentions that sometimes the climate extremes are so intense that they have to harvest when they can, without waiting for the moon to be in the right position.
The black tree-like symbol represents the Ngeringa tree. "Ngeringa" means "place of the she oak" in the original local dialect, though the tree is not like an oak at all. The needles on this tree resemble equisetum (horsetail), which is used in biodynamic preparation 508. Because of planting restrictions, they cannot grow equisetum on site, and so they make this preparation by substituting the needles of the Ngeringa tree. I think this is an ingenious solution by using what you've got to do the best you can. It's also a way to bring the entire ecosystem together and give the name a much deeper significance.
The black tree-like symbol represents the Ngeringa tree. "Ngeringa" means "place of the she oak" in the original local dialect, though the tree is not like an oak at all. The needles on this tree resemble equisetum (horsetail), which is used in biodynamic preparation 508. Because of planting restrictions, they cannot grow equisetum on site, and so they make this preparation by substituting the needles of the Ngeringa tree. I think this is an ingenious solution by using what you've got to do the best you can. It's also a way to bring the entire ecosystem together and give the name a much deeper significance.
The Altus is mostly viognier-- a grape not often (not ever?) used to make vin santo-style wines. Erinn said something quite profound when he began to talk about why he is making this:
"It's our luxury-- and curse-- in the New World that we can pretty much do whatever we want."
This freedom of choice does inform the philosophies of newer wine regions, for better or for worse, and it is in these regions that we can find some of the most unique wines. But unique, in this case, doesn't mean crazy or wild or extreme. This wine tasted very much like a great Vin Santo-- oxidation can mask many varietal characteristics leaving behind the imprint of the method. Ur Vin Santo in Italy is so varied itself, that it doesn't seem that much of a stretch to make it from viognier (and pinot gris and gewurztraminer).
Vin Santo-- and its diaspora-- make me think about form and line, rather than specific esters from certain grape varieties fermented at specific temperatures. It's a beverage that has a larger envelope of what is acceptable, it's a big-picture wine.
"It's our luxury-- and curse-- in the New World that we can pretty much do whatever we want."
This freedom of choice does inform the philosophies of newer wine regions, for better or for worse, and it is in these regions that we can find some of the most unique wines. But unique, in this case, doesn't mean crazy or wild or extreme. This wine tasted very much like a great Vin Santo-- oxidation can mask many varietal characteristics leaving behind the imprint of the method. Ur Vin Santo in Italy is so varied itself, that it doesn't seem that much of a stretch to make it from viognier (and pinot gris and gewurztraminer).
Vin Santo-- and its diaspora-- make me think about form and line, rather than specific esters from certain grape varieties fermented at specific temperatures. It's a beverage that has a larger envelope of what is acceptable, it's a big-picture wine.
Altus is a Latin word meaning 'high, deep, noble, profound,' and the wine certainly delivers. 
Erinn Klein in NYC
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