Rhone varieties have a storied history throughout California. A few months ago, I traveled throughout the state to chat with winemakers and learn about why they love working with Rhone varieties. I wove their thoughts together into an audio essay-- click here to listen to the podcast episode that tells their story. 

A couple of weeks ago I teamed up with Booth Hardy of Barrel Thief (Richmond, Virginia) and Kim Prokoshyn of Rebelle (Manhattan, NY). We traveled to the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA in search of pinot noir for the Wine & Spirits Magazine Sommelier Scavenger Hunt. 

We learned so much about the AVA! The Santa Cruz Mountains are so special-- this wine region has an altitude requirement which lifts most of the vineyards up above the fog line. You end up with small, meticulously farmed vineyards that on the tops of mountains. The vineyards are often surrounded by redwoods and eucalyptus trees. The smell of the forest can be sensed in the glass. 

Check out our full report here. 

Here is a recent article about Virginia's wine growth. Production, interest, and quality have all increased in the last decade.... 

The Virginia Winemakers Research Exchange

I recently sat down with Virginia winemakers Emily Pelton (Veritas Vineyards) and Scott Dwyer (Pollak) to talk about their innovative research exchange. 

Their group started informally, with friendly sessions of winemakers gathering to share their trials and experiments. As the idea picked up steam, they formalized their process and got funding from the Monticello Wine Trail to found the Monticello Winemakers Research Exchange. This core group of Monticello AVA winemakers has now expanded to include all of Virginia, with new funding from the Virginia Wine Board. 

Read all about it here, in my latest article for The C-Ville Weekly. You can also visit the Virginia Winemakers Research Exchange website at www.winemakersresearchexchange.com to see the results of their trials. They publish their results publicly so that everyone may benefit from their efforts. 

What makes this endeavor so extraordinary? You'll often find trials such as these in an academic university setting, but rarely do you see a group of winemakers so motivated and dedicated to sharing their experimental results. Several wine regions have organizations among winemakers, but to see this level and scope of experimentation is quite unique. With the excitement and commitment that currently surrounds the VWRE's tasting sessions, and with online access to the results, an individual's experiment has the potential to enhance the wines across the state. 

Click here to read my latest article for Knife & Fork magazine about chardonnay in Virginia. 

I just returned from an incredible journey through California, visiting several producers who focus specifically on Rhone varieties. The journey began in southern California and ended in the Sierra Nevada Foothills. As the trip progressed, it became clear that this was more than just a wine trip up California's coast... this was a journey through time that began with some of California's newest vineyards, and ended with some of its oldest. So, this post will start at the end of the trip, which was a beginning for Rhone varieties in California. 

Though much of California's deep wine history points to missionaries and sacramental wine, a whole other chapter can be found in the Gold Rush days. The influx of miners from around the world led to the pop up of many towns and, indirectly, the infrastructure of civilization, such as food and beverage production. Miners needed something to drink. 

Head to Lodi, and you'll find one of the most interesting vineyards in all of California: The Bechthold Vineyard, originally planted in 1886. Here, gnarly old cinsault vines stand sentinel and make some of the most interesting wine in California. 

Geyserville is home to a wealth of old vines that, like the Bechthold vineyard, trace their history back to the 1880s. 

As I asked around about some of the older vineyards in the area, by happenstance I ran into Will Thomas, Viticulturist at Ridge, who pointed out some of the older vines in Whitton Ranch's 'Old Patch.' 

For a wine geek, this enthralling plot of ancient vines is where you want to be. It was incredible to stand among vines that are older than my great grandparents. After all, what other agricultural product can service four generations over the course of its life cycle? Being around vines this old sparks a true communion with the past. Planted as a field blend in the 1880s, this patch is predominantly zinfandel, with other Rhone varieties mixed in, such as grenache, syrah, and carignane.

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Two of the first winemakers to work with the Black Bear fruit were Jim Clendenen (Au Bon Climat) and Bob Lindquist (Qupe), who worked together at Zaca Mesa before founding their own labels. Today, they work with fruit at Bien Nacido in the Santa Maria Valley. As two bellwether producers for the larger Santa Barbara Country, Clendenen and Lindquist have written (an continue to write) an important chapter for California wine. 

When you arrive at Bien Nacido, you unmistakably enter a special place. To get here, a long, hot, semi-flat drive suddenly opens up into a Brigadoon-like valley, with round mountains that rise up around a valley that winds through a lush paradise of vines that spill down the hillsides to the mixed crops below that push up from the valley floor. 

Juxtaposing the vineyards in the south against the old vineyards in the north, you'll find great differences in age. The producers in the north who work with the old vines shepherd the established vineyards through the season and work with a framework handed down to them from the past. The producers in the south are building such a framework that will hopefully, one day, be the future of Santa Barbara Country wine.